The Residency is the site of the Seige of Lucknow, during the Indian Mutiny of 1857. Some two-thousand British residents died during this time in 1857.
That’s the way it looks!
All frames shot by the author on Sunday, January 12, 2020. Minolta SRT 101. Lens used was a Cosina 28-70 mm MC Macro. I have used this camera for almost fifty years at this point. Works perfectly. Kodacolor 200 film. Self developed by the author with Tetenal Colortec C-41 process. Aminabad Market is one of the main markets in Lucknow, India. The market is especially crowded on Sundays.
In 1856,the British overthrew the Dynasty of the Newab of Lucknow. The Newab was exiled to Calcutta (Kolkata). The next year, the Indians launched the first chapter in the “Indian War of Independence” for freedom from British rule. Some two thousand British perished. The buildings of the Residency still bear the bullet holes and scars from the battles in 1857. An interesting place to visit if one travels to Lucknow, the capitol of the state of Uttar Pradesh.
All images taken by the author on January 10, 2020. Leica M6 TTL Camera. Ilford HP5 Plus film (Pushed to ISO 1600). Hand developed with Kodak HC-110.
India Trip. Blog 9 Lucknow (January 10, 2020) The Lucknow Bar
8:15 Evening. A hell of an experience just now. I went out of the hotel and walked down the main road. I think the direction is to the south.
There were no restaurants around that I could see and it was quite hard to walk, sometimes, on the street. In some places, the sidewalk was blocked and there was all kinds of filth. Just amazing.
But there are some hotels and restaurants on the other side of the street. I managed to dodge the traffic, motorcycles, cars, and buses and get over to the other side. In a place with the name “restaurant,” I asked if they had beer. He said, no. I asked him where there is a place that sells beer. He said that there is not a place like that.
I thought that it might be true in this area, but certainly not true in the whole city. So I walked back in the direction I had come toward Husseinganj. There is a metro stop there just close to the hotel.
Finally, I made it back to the Mira Mann Hotel, with the horse and rider in front. I went to the small road on the other side of the street. I noticed that across that small road, there was a quite big sign that said “Restaurant and Bar.” But there was really no sign of a bar.
So I went over there, dodging the motorcycles. The place just looked like all the other dirty and crummy store fronts. But there was a guy in front. I asked him where was the bar. “Bar kaha hai?” He pointed up the steps toward a door. And sure enough, there was a bar inside there. It was being run by a young guy.
Another young guy came from the back and said in English that they were going to make a video for a whiskey brand and he wanted me to review it. He said something about me getting some free whiskey if I would review the video. The brand was “Signature Whiskey.” But I told him that I really did not care to drink whiskey. I told him that I had just come here for a beer. The young guy running the bar was back there. I asked if they had beer, because the place was pretty much set up for various types of whiskey, it seemed.
So I sat down at a table and aksed for a Kingfisher beer, light. They are 4.7 percent, which is not very light.
The waiter, a wretched looking guy, brought it. The bottle looked normal. He poured some in the glass, but I did not let him fill it. I noticed that it did not make any head like a normal beer would. I tasted it. It didn’t taste like any beer that I had ever tasted. I thought that it might be a different type of beer. Or I thought it could be that they had adulterated a beer or put something else in the Kingfisher bottle. I noticed that first, it was not making any foam. And it did not have any sparkles in it. It was just completely dead.
I said to myself: Okay, I will pay for this beer, but I am not going to drink it. I had already ordered some chips for Rupees seventy. Hardly worth it. But it is a bar.
Finally, I decided to just take the beer to the young guy and tell him that something was wrong with the beer. (Just talked to Selma.)
He looked at the beer. One could see that the color was off. There were no suds. Just a dead beer, and it did not taste at all like beer.
I told him that I would pay for it, but that it was not real beer. So he opened another Kingfisher beer. I tasted it and it was okay. I don’t think it was their fault, but somehow the bottle had just gone bad.
The workers in the Residency grounds offered me chai today.
I sat back down at the same table. I had finished the chips that were way too salty. After that, I ordered two papads. That was good with the beer.
This town is more fun than Calcutta, in my view.
I got to the end of the beer. Then I started thinking that I should have another one and forget the dinner at the hotel. All that formality to go through, it is just more comfortable in the bar.
Another choice on the menu was Tuborg beer. I think that it must be made in India. So I thought to try a Tuborg. I liked it better, but did not think to ask for a light one. This one was stronger at eight percent. I didn’t want that much alcohol, but thought that I would just drink it slowly.
Some guys had come into the place across from me. They were putting away the drinks very fast. I don’t know how many. They were all big and fat, sort of maganda types, but seemed friendly. Boy! They were really putting them away, peg after peg. There was a television on the wall, where a Cricket match was going on.
The only other thing I had was potato pakora. Alloo pakora. That was also Rupees seventy. A dollar or so. I was just enjoying soaking and poking and seeing what was going on there. I took a whiz before I finished the beer, just to take a look at the pisser. Man! What a dirty shit-hole! Revolting!
One has to say that this is a very dirty country for the most part. I jump back and forth from liking it to hating it. What a disaster it is!
Well, before I finished the beer, I asked the young guy running the place if I could take a picture of the bar and drinks. Not with a flash. I was pushing the film at ISO 800. He said it was okay. So I took a couple of shots.
Then the guys at the table near the bar wanted to take a selfie with me. Well, the big fat one did. That was okay. I enjoyed it. I could not really communicate with that guy, but he understood that I was an American. It was fun.
I paid up and left some tip. The bill was about Rupees 700. I made a couple of night pictures on the street. There was an old guy selling bananas. I bought a bunch from him for Rupees forty.
There was a general store where they had bottled water out in front. I bought a big bottle, rupees thirty. But getting across the street at the roundabout was an experience. I finally made it, but mostly by sticking close to some guy who was also crossing there. Sometimes it is the only way that I can do it.
I got across and came to the hotel. Well, I found my pub for this hotel. And that other guy was just telling me that I can just buy beer from a package shop, but not sit down to drink it. It was bullshit.
He surely would have known that it is not true, when I learned it the second day that I was here. I cannot say.
Anyway, I thought that it was a hell of a day and I enjoyed the experiences. Tomorrow I have a better idea of what is where and how to get around and take some more pictures. That is the story for today. I thought it was successful and I enjoyed it.
India Trip: Blog 7 The Mera Mann Hotel, Lucknow (9 January 2020)
8:45 Evening. Just back from having dinner downstairs.
10:00 Not sure yet what I will do tomorrow. Maybe I will go to that old British Residency. It would be good if it is a sunny day and warmer.
Downstairs is a nice restaurant. They are operating very classically. I asked for a Lucknow dish. It is something like Lucknow Dum Aloo and it was quite delicious. I had it with a nan, also very nice. They gave chutney with it, onion pickled, mint and mango achar. Very nicely done. It very much filled me up, almost more than I could eat. Anyway, I was hungry.
At the end of the meal, they bring one a dish of nimboo pani (lemon water) to wash your fingers after the food. Then some mouth freshners, cheney, rough ground sugar and sweet somph (anise). And plain somph. I had not seen that sweet somph like that before. It seems that they do not have that in Punjab.
The bill was less than Rupees 400. Maybe Rupees 380 or so. You just pay it right there and can give a tip. The down side of it is that they do not have beer. Places here seem to be quite conservative. Anyway, I can probably have a beer outside somewhere.
I wish that I could go to sleep a little earlier tonight. The bed is big and wide. I hope that I will be warm enough. I found that the upper window slides open so that I can take a picture from there tomorrow.
So in reality, I didn’t do anything today except make the trip to Lucknow. I only made one picture down in the dining room. I really do like the hotel a lot so far.
A girl came up and started talking to me in the airport when I was arranging a taxi. She was friendly. She asked if I found it easy to exchange money. I said, “Oh, everything is easy if you have money.” She was quite open and said that she had lived in the US for some months. I told her that I was from California. Well, just as well claim that. I have spent some years of my life there. I was starting to ask where she had lived in the US but then I got the ticket and wished her good luck. That was all.
The guide book says that the town is 15 kilometers from the airport. It seemed like a long way, actually.
10 Januarym Friday Morning. I will make a few notes and then get out.
It is a sunny day. Good! I shot a few color frames out the window through the top that opens. Otherwise, the glass is too dirty. It could be cleaned easily from the top. It is a shame that they do not clean the windows. That makes it look a lot more smoggy than it really is.
I got a good sleep. I really crapped out after ten. Then woke up. I thought it was morning. But it was only 1:30. So I stayed awake a little before sleeping again. Then I was out again till almost 7:00 this morning. This hotel is much quieter than the Hotel Alka in Delhi.
I had some dreams. I think we were riding somewhere. Seems like Selma was driving. Bernie Sanders was with us. It was his car. We came to this steep hill, just unpaved. There were some big water holes. I said, “Don’t drive up that.” So we went back down. Some crazy dream, mixed up with Bernie Sanders.
This morning there was good hot water. So I took a shower. It was a little cold in the room, but the shower was fine. I got cleaned up nicely. I went down, after arranging my things, somewhat. All Indian. But there were some decent things, not just all spicy stuff. Fruits such as papaya, watermelon, pineapple. There was something like an oatmeal, that really didn’t hurt me. Sometimes too much spice. I had a slight heart-burn feeling in the night and took a couple of talcids (antacid). Otherwise, it was fine. But really, there is too much spice sometimes unless one eats yogurt with it to neutralize some.
The tea that they normally give is just “white tea.” Milk and sugar already in it. I can drink it, but like black tea. They offer coffee, but I know that it is instant and I do not want that. They tend to do things the easy way.
But I feel good. It is a nice day, but there is no need to jump out too early.
I am thinking to go to the Residency where the Seige of the British took place in 1857. Very notable in Indian/British history. I will get an auto rickshaw to take me there, if I can. From the map it does not look so far away. But it is hard to tell. This hotel is in the more “modern” section of the town, it appears. I want to go the chowk too, the old market area. I will look into the map a little.
India Trip. Blog 6: Delhi to Lucknow (9 January, 2020)
5:15 Afternoon. Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. Made it to Lucknow, but I shot the whole day getting here, unfortunately. But that’s OK. This trip was OK. Man! It really does eat up your time getting to the airport and to the flight. I was one of the last into the plane, but that was my fault.
The room here is good. Mera Mann Hotel. 14,000 Rupees for five days. I will pay them in Rupees. It comes out to just 40 dollars a day. Two hundred dollars total.
5:40 Evening. Things worked out OK. I got out of the hotel by eleven, but it was none too soon. There was a good deal of traffic on the way. But also, I read the print-out wrong. I was supposed to go to Terminal 3. That is the main terminal and it has both domestic and international departures.
So when I lined up to go in to Terminal 2, the guy sent me to the other terminal.
One can just walk there, but it is not very easy, unless one knows the way. You have to go across the street to another building. Then down an elevator, and then walk through a tunnel. But anyway, I saw it and went there to the domestic side and of course Vistara Airlines was at the very far end. There is no getting a close gate for me on this trip.
A young military guy helped me find the way to that tunnel. Otherwise, I would have been lost, as it is not well marked.
I got in and checked my bag. It is written clearly, but somehow it seems that they had trouble reading the ticket page.
Anyway, I got the boarding ticket and went around to the security for the domestic departures. That is the most trouble, because of the very bad organization of it. Almost anyone, it seems, could figure out a more efficient way of doing it. People bunch up. It was so slow. I was all set up and well organized to go through but of everyone going through for that whole time, I was the only one that he made take their shoes off and go back again and put them through the machine.
Everybody else, all the Indians, were just going on through. But when he saw my American passport, he started pulling that shit. That might be why.
So I said, “Well, I’m not going to go all the way back in the line.” But it was hard to get one of those big trays and the line of trays was already full. Then I came back and the guy starts body screening me all over, a second time. I reminded him that he had just done that. He was acting like a robot. All my money was setting there in a bag in a tray at the end and I was waiting for the guy on the other end to put my shoes through that machine. And my shoes did not make any noise with the wand, but he wanted them put through the machine anyway. It just seemed like harassment. I had to wait for a long time for them to come through the machine, just standing there, while probably at least thirty people had gone through. Finally I just walked back past his check post and got my shoes and left, once they came through the machine. Everybody else’s stuff was coming through ahead of them.
Finally, I headed for the gate number 51. It was practically the farthest point in the airport again. But I did not feel like running. I thought I had plenty of time. But actually the plane was almost fully boarded at that time.
I waited to eat a brownie, but then saw that the plane had already boarded. So much time had been wasted getting through that security. I went there and they sent me down the ramp to the plane. It was almost full. A few more came, but maybe they bought late tickets. The guy said that I was the last person to board.
The plane waited for some time more before taking off. The weather had cleared up nicely in Delhi. Some smog, but also sunshine. The flight was fine. I could hardly take it for the one-hour flight, the seat was so hard. But nevertheless, the flight was pleasant. There were some light clouds, but over the cities it seemed to be mostly smog. There was a snack, just a sandwich and a cookie on that flight, with hardly enough time to eat that.
I did change five-hundred dollars in Delhi. So I got 33,500 Rupees. Not a great rate at 67 to a dollar but I am not going scouting around to find a better rate around here. This hotel is 14,000 and I will pay it out of that. They do want rupees. I don’t mind to pay ahead of time as I don’t have to carry the money around.
The taxi was prepaid for Rupees 450, but I gave the guy 100 tip. The taxi in Delhi was 300 and I gave a tip there too. I will tip them if they help me with the bags. But not all of them will. I am being quite generous with these guys. Traffic is horrible.
We got to the place. It is actually a nice hotel. That’s true. There is a traffic circle out in front. I have a nice, big window looking out onto the street. There is a statue of a horse and rider there. I was very happy with the room.
But the window is so dirty, I don’t know if I can take a picture through it successfully. Looks like it has not been washed in 40 years. I don’t know.
So that is the story. Glad that I am finally here. I have to see what I will do tomorrow. It was 17 degrees when we arrived, the high temperature today. The historical city of Lucknow. Old capital of the Newab Dynasty.